Chinon, Clos de la Cure, Charles Jouget ‘05
Grapes:Cabernet FrancEach: £12.50
The elegance of Bordeaux with the voluptuous suppleness of Burgundy.
Whenever I think of the Loire Valley, I see it as the lintel in the doorway that is French wine. On the right is a pillar of voluptuous suppleness from the Rhone Valley, with power, through Burgundy, evasive delicacy, to Champagne, bling but bling with class. On the left is the erect elegance of the institutions that are Claret, Cognac and that racy new interloper Armagnac. Spanning the top and linking the two is the Loire. Sancerre and Pouilly give the Bordelais Sauvignon Blanc a Burgundian excitement. The Melon de Bourgogne of Muscadet could not be better suited to the restrained seafood of the Atlantic and Bordeaux. And with Cremant and the Coteaux de Layon, Champagne and Sauternes are better than imitated.
If there is to be a criticism of the Loire it might be that it is too far north. Not really a problem easily addressed and not necessarily a problem. What can be is a tendency to lean, mean,austere styles.
The delicate aromatic style of Cabernet Franc tends to get overwhelmed south in Bordeaux where it plays very much a second fiddle to cousin Sauvignon. An earlier ripener Franc tends to be most useful in cooler vintages when Sauvignon struggles to ripen – never a year that will be heralded as “the best of the century”. In the Loire the season suits better. If a banker in Bordeaux grown to ensure a crop at all in the Loire it hits its straps thriving on the more delicate climate and conditions.
Few nurture this tricky grape as do the crew at Jouget. Here they regularly achieve bright, vibrant, complex aromatics and mouth filling ripeness on the palate.Back to the List
Back to Merl, Cab and other Bord Beauties
Mercurey, Vieilles Vignes, Francois Raquillet ‘04
Grape: Pinot NoirEach: £15.00
One of the most exciting producers in the whole of Burgundy. The first time I tasted Francois Raquillet’s wines was nothing short of a revelation and every vintage since seems to get better.
A massively inquisitive nature means tinkering. Each vintage Raquillet seems to adapt his technique trying to go one better than his latest and greatest effort. For mere mortals surely a recipe for disaster but where others would surely fail Raquillet seems to have cut some deal that has, to date, guaranteed success. Don’t ask to see the picture in his attic!
Raquillet makes various cuvees, all different but all exploring the same theme. His wines are always rich and full of fruit flavour with varying degrees of structure but always in perfect balance. Never do they share any of the lean meaness that is all to common in Burgundy nor do they share the shyness of many only revealing their true delights briefly and after far to much waiting in anticipation. Raquillet’s wines always seem ready to play. The old vines of the Vieilles Vignes add an extra layer complexity and concentration.
Raquillet makes various cuvees, all different but all exploring the same theme. His wines are always rich and full of fruit flavour with varying degrees of structure but always in perfect balance. Never do they share any of the lean meaness that is all to common in Burgundy nor do they share the shyness of many only revealing their true delights briefly and after far to much waiting in anticipation. Raquillet’s wines always seem ready to play. The old vines of the Vieilles Vignes add an extra layer complexity and concentration.
Back to the List
Back to Stars
Back to Pinot Noir
List Lean
Where to look for what
Fizzzzz - soon to be expanded
Quaffers - Everyday prices, exceptional wines!
Whites
Aromatic Whites - at least vaguely, anything but Chardonnay
Chardonnay - or empathetically structured
Pink - New for the weather!
Reds
Red Italians - everything old is new again!
Shirazzy - from warmer Mediterranean hugging climes or just Oz
Bordeaux - new and old
Pinot Noir - ahh the stroppy Beast of Burgundy, you've got to love it
The Larder - Mother Hubbard eat your heart out.
Pinks - our rose selection
**An introductory mixed dozen for £90**
2 of each Rose plus an extra two bottles from the selection - you chose which two.
Email Think Pink Offer or call 01243 383733
One of the upsides of a spot of global warming- perfect for some relaxed al fresco, impromptu or not, and nothing goes better than a drop of pink. That said I was always stunned by the continuing year round demand in the Harvey Nichols restaurants and bars, so do ask if you fancy some "out of season".
2 of each Rose plus an extra two bottles from the selection - you chose which two.
Email Think Pink Offer or call 01243 383733
One of the upsides of a spot of global warming- perfect for some relaxed al fresco, impromptu or not, and nothing goes better than a drop of pink. That said I was always stunned by the continuing year round demand in the Harvey Nichols restaurants and bars, so do ask if you fancy some "out of season".
Reds - our red selection
Shirazzzzy
Whites - our white selection
Aromatics
Sparklers - our fizzy selection
Champagne
So Much More
Beyond the Core....
► Please, please put us through our paces and ask if you want something specific we don't list. The hardest part of parting with Harvey Nicks was saying goodbye to the warehouse that allowed a list of about 1000 active lines - most I can still access but they just don't fit under my stairs!
► We'll be adding a selection of vital wine toys and an expanding selection larder ingredients.
The Box Scheme
► A selection that explores the subject of the month - well every two months!. Perhaps:
- a variety – Great Grenaches of the world
- a technique – Bio-dynamics, or what to do with that pesky cow horn
- something tasty – It's Saturday night, I've ten top friends arriving, just what am I going serve with the pan fried foie gras and corn fritter starter? I know I'll ask Monkeyshed!
- an occasion – wines for Mid Summer's Eve and the straw wrapped sea bass on the barbeque.
► Accompanying tasting and background notes. More background than tasting, as is my wont – although we’ll point you towards the gooseberries and cats pee where necessary.
► Variety. The selection that will vary in size, perhaps a dozen bottles, perhaps only six, but always great value!
► Cost. Order it as you like for £130 delivered or take away the risk of missing out sign up and get a surprise treat for just £120.
The Food File
► Every month we'll review a recipe and perhaps include a parallel food offer in the Box Schemes. Gourmet smoked eels, handmade aniseed biscuits, a bottle of olive oil or even a six pack of olive oil as the box?!
Cellar Services
► Whether it’s a rescue mission or a blank canvas we have the technology. ► We’ll value your stocks, assess drinking habits and look at your cellaring needs all to deliver a Plan.
► Then build, sell and buy to meet the plan and give you a working cellar.Our extra dimensions.
For those that want a more involved experience the world is your oyster. There are no ideas too outlandish only, only ..... er martians? (or however it goes.......)
Alexander Ignatieff
Monkeyshed Wines
+44 (0) 7771 936297 (mobile)
(alex@monkeyshed.com)
Labels: Food
That Bijou Selection explained
The Selection comes from vineyards whose acquaintances have been made over the years or just today as part of the ongoing quest for that perfect bottle (what keeps this old dog searching).
Naturally, there are a few principles that guide selection:
Naturally, there are a few principles that guide selection:
► Rigorous. Every new wine is assessed by our rigorous tasting panel and only those we are happy to see again the next morning make it!
► Truth. We look for wines that are true to their origin and roots, good examples that must deliver value for money whatever their price point.
► Organic. For me grapes are so sensitive that working with an eye to organic principles is a given for good winemaking. Excitingly, vineyards that have gone the whole hog and become certified organic are now producing wines that live up to their promise, these are embraced warmly.The List lives in a permanent state of flux as we find new treats, add special parcels or just get bored with a relic or two - don't worry we'll update you with a regular newsletter. We've tackled four key areas of drinking needs:
► The Quaffers, everyday drinking. Two, three or four everyday drinkers chosen to take the hit and miss out of the superstore wine selection lottery. All are around £6.50 or under and hit both the cheeky little quaffer spot and the wallet with such a satisfying pleasure that you’ll forget those evil greenfield killing monoliths and support not just your local butcher, fishmonger, fruit and veggerer but also the wine merchant too!
► The Quirky, a selection of less familiar treats. Partnered with a classic of similar style to help you taste in some bold new directions safe in the knowledge that if you enjoyed the classic these are wines that should tickle your fancy too.
►The Boat. Occassional special parcels, particularly of very fine wines ready for drinking right now, that you don't want to miss the ...........We've stuck with the classic layout in four sections - Sparklers, White, Pink or Red - just to list the wines. Click on any for further waffle, ideas for alternatives, any food notes etc, etc, etc.
Those Twenty Years - about Monkeyshed
Some twenty years of blissful happiness have taken me all over the world looking for a definitive answer to Dinner Party Question #3 “what is your favourite wine?”
It all kicked off in the formal splendour of the The Treasury Restaurant at the Hotel Inter Continental Sydney. Three years tasting my way through our wonderfully classic list and adding from the newly resurgent local industry cannot be beaten as a grounding.
Too many late nights later I jumped the fence and spent the next three years supplying Sydney’s top restaurants and bottle shops with a portfolio of Australia’s finest independent wineries - someone had to do it.
Keen to expand my knowledge and having passed the entrance exams in Sydney, London was to be my base in the quest to become a Master of Wine. Gainful employment intervened. For the next twelve years I set up and ran the wine and spirits business of Harvey Nichols. After the original selection for The Fifth Floor responsibility burgeoned to include tailored ranges for all our satellite stores in Leeds, Birmingham Edinburgh and finally Manchester. Life also included lists and training for two stand alone restaurant operations at Prism in the city and The Oxo Tower on the Southbank. The remit was to cover the wine world The combination of retail and hospitality outlets required a selection, about one thousand active lines, that ranged from affordable house through the finest classics, a selection that could be drunk now or reserved to mature - very much like running a particularly large private cellar.
A move to Sussex took me to the wonderful world of consultancy before becoming manager for the set up and opening of The Kennels, the Goodwood Estate’s fantastic private restaurant and bar, with the best wine list in Sussex!
That done it’s time for a new venture – and adventure – with Monkeyshed Wines.
Labels: About Monkeyshed
Terms and Conditions
► Minimum Orders must be for 12 bottles.
► Deliveries
► Prices listed on the website include VAT unless otherwise stated.
► Lists are published monthly and the current list supersedes all others.
► Wines will be invoiced on ordering and payment is due immediately.
► Wines remain the property of Monkeyshed Wines until full payment has been received.
► Deliveries
- Local delivery is free.
- Deliveries further afield but on mainland UK are chargeable at £10 for one case drops, £15 for drops of 2-5 case or free for deliveries of over 5 cases.
- Deliveries outside mainland UK by arrangement.
► Prices listed on the website include VAT unless otherwise stated.
► Lists are published monthly and the current list supersedes all others.
► Wines will be invoiced on ordering and payment is due immediately.
► Wines remain the property of Monkeyshed Wines until full payment has been received.
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