Loimer, Kamptal Riesling, Austria ‘07

Grapes: Riesling
Each: £9.95

I’ve got a thing about Fred Loimer’s wines.
In fact it probably goes further than that to my introduction to Austrian wines. An invite came through to a tasting at the Austrian Ambassador’s Residence in Belgrave Square about two seconds from my old Knightsbridge office. It seemed churlish not to. I waltzed up expecting something along the lines of the slightly mad, slightly unwashed, slightly hippy, boho crew that had revealed themselves as the Swiss wine trade. Not a bit of it. I clearly hadn’t read my invitation and dared to turn up around lunch time not in full ball gown and feeling particularly underdressed. An extraordinary atmosphere of very much alive imperial majesty leagues removed from their alpine neighbours. The wines are similarly leagues apart. If the Swiss offer slightly too high altitude versions of their neighbours in France, Italy and I suppose Germany, Austrian wines are truly singing their own song. The best are absolutely fantastic with a brilliant combination of purity and richness.
The Loimer wines deliver.

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